Chanel Cruise 2026/27 review.
Chanel artistic director Matthieu Blazy opened up his first cruise show for the label with a trio of art deco inspired looks all in black; with the signature Blazy twist. Loose dress silhouettes were dropped low, suits were loosened up and inspiration seemed to be pulled from an antique bathing suit made modern. After all, the little Chanel logo bathing costume was accessorized with a scarlet red crochet flap bag, logo belt and a Chanel jacket trimmed in a menagerie of starfish and coral crochet, replete with seashell buttons.
Stripes, tweed, playful prints and Blazy’s signature big, over-the-top embellished skirts dominated the collection. But most importantly, there were chic, fun little swim caps with chin straps. Paired with sunglasses, slouchy striped sweaters and madcap maximalist masterpiece maxi skirts, these combinations echoed the idea of more is more and dressing up in the spirit of joy. Another example of extreme playfulness came through in the monumental, oversized striped logo tote. Slung over the model’s shoulder, it extended all the way past the knees.
We all know by now that Blazy is a master of creating covetable accessories, and here we saw thigh high wader boots, cabochon bangles, a kelly green feather hat topped off with a single rosette and dangly little Chanel logo cornicello earrings. Book-shaped locket necklaces were draped alongside pearl tassel sautoirs. A fully crocheted flower power suit topped off with a teal swim bonnet (sculpted with a miniature fin!) was a highlight of the collection. A picturesque long coat and polo knit, both showcasing the scenery of Biarritz in a crafty, retro manner (paired with a umbrella stripe red and white skirt) felt like the kind of unique pieces fashion collectors are craving these days.
Blazy also experimented with newsprint, putting it on ruffle midi dress and transforming it into the classic Chanel suit and one gown with a feathered rosette detail. It’s a print that’s been used for decades and one that also holds a lot of prominence in the vintage collecting world. Chanel just recently re-released the 2004 Cambon flats, so it’s no surprise the label is well aware of what’s trending in secondhand circles. One very special newsprint jacket was covered in a red fishnet finishing, trapped with beautiful embroidered fishing flies and glittering dragonflies.
Taking place in Biarritz, France, Chanel’s Cruise 2026/26 collection continued Blazy’s concept of paying tribute to Gabrielle Chanel’s lore. She opened her first couture shop in the city in 1915. “Far from the Paris salon, Chanel found in Biarritz different ways of being and seeing, of movement and freedom,” Blazy stated in the show notes. “She made them her fashion pedestal. It is a place that offers the perfect balance between function and fiction. Among artists, workers, nobility, sailors and the natural world, everyone and everything shared the same stage, living together as a norm. All had a role to play.”
Unexpected hues like mint green and vibrant red-orange collided, with details including art deco bows. The collection finished with a duo of fantasy mermaid gowns in turquoise and fiery sunset orange fish-scale paillettes, sure to be favorites come red carpet season.
Where there wasn’t bold and colorful expressions, much of the rest of the collection was anchored around the little black dress, which Blazy called “the original revenge dress” in the show notes. Here we saw it in all of its glory: in sparkling tweed iterations, in leather halter styles finished with exaggerated raffia fringe and a logo at the waist, or even done with extreme tailoring, with a big bow headpiece.
We’ll be thinking about how we can get our hands on the red and white striped logo swim caps for the rest of summer. Blazy is still in his early days but easily proving that he can balance tactile drama with quiet classicism–and an innate knack for witty and unique accessories, which is more important than ever.
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