Christian Cowan Fall 2024: Swans, Mob Wives and Saltburn Stereotypes

Christian Cowan fall 2024

Christian Cowan took his fall 2024 collection in a very different direction than his last season Parisian debut which involved Sam Smith and large, walking furry balls. With sky-high wigs and crystalline gems applied by the Euphoria makeup artist Donni Davy, Cowan stepped into the more extravagant side of Upper East Siders’ world–with a great age diverse casting to boot. ’90s models including Emily Sandberg, Nelly Pakh, Jenny Brunt, Elanor Simon, Bethany Nagy, Giannie Couji and Duyen all walked the show.

At a time when Swans (the lore of Capote) and mob wives are on everyone’s lips, it’s easy to see why the collection resonated. Plus, a modified soundtrack from Saltburn played as models quite literally swanned about under the wood-carved ceiling and chandeliers in gossamer sheer maxi gowns, sparkling star sequin mini dresses, fuzzy boas, shimmering capes and razor sharp tailored suits reworked with all kinds of exaggerated cut-outs. Flat shoes, kitten heels and flower-embellished Tom’s (a new collaboration for Christian Cowan) dominated the footwear. One model backstage commented about how happy she was that the footwear was comfortable.

With wine glasses and cigarettes in hand, the models sauntered down the runway with personality. Stars were everywhere figuratively and literally–Cowan took the majority of his inspiration from stars and astrology for this collection but the models lit up the runway. Also: older models are everywhere this season. It’s great.

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