Ulla Johnson Fall 2024
There’s something to be said for those designers who bring forward a sense of magical alchemy to everyday dressing: those brands that subtly mix thoughtful fabrics, prints and textures with silhouettes that are surprising, but somehow also wearable in the real world. Actually, very few of them exist, but Ulla Johnson has always been one of them.
For Ulla Johnson’s fall 2024 show, she brought guests to Brooklyn for a collection fueled by adornment and the trial and error of getting there. Johnson was thinking about the performance aspect of being a woman and all it that encompasses, inspired by the philosopher Judith Butler’s 1990 book Gender Trouble. It’s an interesting topic especially right now, when designers are playing with the multi-dynamic exploration of being a woman (or therefore also, girl) and how it presents itself. Even more interesting was the fact that Johnson chose to integrate male models into her runway show, wearing some of the women’s designs.
Against the bold brownish and yellow-y shades of the backdrop, nothing looked as good as those ultra-saturated colors Johnson has become so enamoured with: marigold yellows, shimmering coppers, brilliant purples; even the ivories and inky charcoals came alive through textiles like stunning crochet, boiled wool and refined leathers. Call it everyday alchemy: the opulent transformation of pretty dresses through an infusion of major personality.
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